What
is it with women and high heeled shoes? Such shoes
are known to be uncomfortable, unhealthy and even
dangerous for those wearing them. Not only do they
force the wearer's feet and body into unnatural positions,
they are hard to stand or walk around in for any extended
time, and prolonged use can lead to damage of internal
reproductive organs. Despite what appear to be these
rather obvious drawbacks, they still dominate in high-fashion
female footwear – to the point where the higher the
heels, the more expensive and fashionable the shoes
are likely to be. They remain popular and may even
have become more so among women across the world,
who want to be thought sexy and abreast of the latest
trends.
In fact, they seem to be excessively popular in the
most unlikely surroundings. On the streets of the
charming Old City in Tallinn, Estonia (which is a
UNESCO World Heritage site as the largest still-preserved
Hanseatic urban centre), walking can be a complicated
activity at the best of times, despite the delightful
views and appealing historic architecture. This is
because most of the streets are still paved with cobblestones
dating in some places to as long ago as the 13th century,
in other places more ''recent'' – that is, as late
as the 17th century. The stones are naturally uneven
and irregular but still highly polished due to constant
use.
In spring and summer these cobblestoned streets are
at least clear, if often wet - but for around five
months of the year, snow and ice make them particularly
treacherous for navigation. So even with the most
sensible made-for-walking sort of shoes, pedestrians
have to be careful to avoid slipping or turning ankles
on the uneven surfaces. But even on these difficult
streets, it is a common sight to see gorgeous young
Estonian women walking implausibly briskly along in
footwear of the most extravagant heel length imaginable.
So there are women wearing all sorts of different
clothing, from miniskirts to casual jeans to elaborate
evening wear, but with very high stiletto heels. These
very scary high heels in turn come on all sorts of
shoes: not just dressy shoes for the night out, but
sandals and even apparently casual shoes that look
like sneakers or sport shoes in front but have crazy
high heels at the back. For those who enjoy sitting
at roadside cafes and watching the world go by, this
can even make it hard to raise the eyes above the
knees: so varied, fascinating and downright incredible
are the shoes worn especially by younger women.
It is observed by some locals that this tendency reflects
the subtle but still pervasive patriarchy that characterises
gender relations in Estonia. Corporate clothing retailers,
for example, have very different marketing strategies
and choice of garments for women in Estonia than for
their counterparts in neighbouring Finland and Sweden:
in Estonia the focus is much more on selling sexy,
revealing clothing that demands in turn that the women
have to be fitter. Some young women note the social
pressure to achieve perfect bodies and look attractive
at all times, which is possibly more marked here than
in most other European countries.
This is more than just a cultural or even sociological
phenomenon. In fact, the extravagantly high shoes
so beloved of young women in Estonia could serve as
metaphor for the Estonian economy, and by extension,
the broader European economy: in the throes of self-inflicted
pain in the hope of preserving a certain self-image
and attracting others, and relying on possibly the
wrong indicators of success to achieve self-esteem.
Most mainstream analysts would immediately challenge
such an assessment. Estonia was one of the more developed
regions of the former Soviet Union, the home of the
electronic engineering and early ''knowledge-based''
industries. That tradition has continued to some extent
in the post-Soviet era: for instance, Estonia is the
home of ''Skype'', which was developed in Tallinn,
and is currently promoting not just software development
but biomedical innovation as means of riding the ladder
of economic success within a broad macroeconomic policy
that puts the entire responsibility for growth on
private activity.
There are limitations of such a strategy. For example,
Rainer Kattel and other researchers at the Tallinn
University of Technology have argued that these policies
have been a double-edged sword: on the one hand enabling
fast and furious industrial restructuring while, on
the other hand, locking Estonia and similar East European
economies into economic activities with low value
added and low productivity growth and thus undermining
future sustainable growth.
The painful industrial restructuring that has occurred
may be one of the reasons why Estonia is cited as
one of the economic ''success stories'' of the European
periphery. The other is in terms of the macroeconomic
policies that have ''delivered'' in terms of cutting
government fiscal deficits. Estonia is a Baltic country
that went through the hoops of very deflationary macroeconomic
policies for several years for the privilege of joining
the eurozone, a goal that was achieved early this
year. Deficits were cut by sharply reducing public
spending even as corporate tax rates have been at
zero for almost a decade.
The ratio of Estonian public debt to GDP was always
very low, even as low as 3.7 per cent of GDP in 2007.
Because of severe fiscal austerity, even during the
crisis it did not increase much, and is still less
than 8 per cent of GDP. The tight control on spending
has kept fiscal deficits very low and budgets almost
in balance. This is seen as a huge success by the
government and is widely touted even in the rest of
Europe as the example of how following stringent austerity
policies can work for a small open European economy.
In fact, all this apparent success has been achieved
at the cost of significant (and potentially increasing)
material pain for the bulk of the population. The
budget cuts affected public services, further increased
unemployment and hit poorer sections hardest. GDP
fell by 15 per cent in 2009 and is still well below
the levels witnessed before the financial crisis.
In fact, current estimates suggest that the economy
is unlikely to reach the 2007 level of GDP before
2014 – in other words, a seven year period.
So employment indicators are bad and worsening. Unemployment
is currently hovering around 15 per cent of the labour
force, and the rate is closer to 20 per cent for youth.
New jobs created tend to be more fragile, insecure
and low paying. There has been a steady and continuous
erosion of real wages.
This happened first through labour market ''flexibility''
measures that allowed employers simply to announce
that certain jobs were now ''90 per cent'' or even
''80 per cent'' of the previous work, even though
the work done did not actually change and sometimes
even increased. It is happening now through the mechanism
of inflation (currently just above 5 per cent annual
rate), which is undermining the living standards of
workers in a slow but effective manner, even as nominal
wages are stagnant or falling. This has contributed
to an increase in household debt, as households borrow
to try and sustain their living standards, forcing
a private imbalance instead of a public one.
This ''internal devaluation'' has contributed to the
falling product wage, which is the only means of making
the economy more competitive with fixed exchange rates
and now within the eurozone. As in the currently troubled
peripheral economies of Europe like Greece, Ireland
and Portugal, it was expected that exports would make
up for the shortfall in domestic demand, but this
has simply not happened.
In fact, exports fell in 2009, and in 2010 have only
managed to get back to their 2008 level because of
increased demand coming from industries in Sweden
and Finland that use the output of Estonian electricity
generation and electronic engineering industries.
These are not particularly large employment generators,
so employment in export industries has not gone up
even though exports have recently shown an upward
trend.
The high unemployment and erosion of living standards
of the population that still has paid jobs are not
immediately visible in the centre of Tallinn. Here,
the unequal pattern of recent growth has meant that
the city centre (including the historic old town)
remains a scene of bustling activity. Economic degradation
is more evident in smaller towns and is also disproportionately
concentrated among the Russian minority, whose members
tend to be much poorer on average than native Estonians.
It is also not that this economic strategy has reached
the end of its possible road. Indeed, with other peripheral
economies facing so many problems, it is quite possible
(and maybe even likely) that Estonia's fiscal indicators
will render it once again an attractive destination
for European finance capital. This could then create
yet another property cum finance bubble in the private
sector, which would generate rapid GDP growth (but
not necessarily too much employment) for a few years
before the bubble then bursts.
This is a strategy that is based on the belief that
increases in inequality will be accepted for quite
some more time among a population that has been rendered
more passive and quiescent by its history and current
socio-political proclivities. So, just like the young
women in high heels stepping in determined if precarious
fashion along Tallinn's cobblestoned streets, the
Estonian economy too may proceed in a way that chooses
self-inflicted pain to be rewarded by external approbation.
Note: This article was originally
published in the Frontline Volume 28 Issue 12, June
04-17, 2011.
June
3, 2011.
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